June 7, 2016

6

Hommikune äratus oli ekstreemselt vara, eriti minu jaoks. Astusin hostelist välja kell 6. Mõtlesin, et nii on kõige lihtsam, käin ringi ja vaatan linnakse ära ja saan varakult tagasi Tokyosse minna, et siis edasi teisele poole Mäge liikuda.

Kawaguchiko on paras pauk teistsugust pärast Tokyot. Selline imetilluke linnake, umbes nagu Aberystwyth, ma kujutaks? Ainult, et ta on suht turistiline, sest Fuji on sealsamas ta kõrval. (Ja 5 suurt järve aitavad ka kaasa).
Igatahes, kell 6 hommikul haarasin bensukast kohvi ja saiakese hommikusöögiks ja tatsasin üsna ärksana järve poole. Mitmed inimesed juba ruttasid tööle või kuhugi aga üldiselt oli vaikne.
Järve ääres olid paar munka (või keskit?), kes tegid varahommikust tai-chid (või noh, võis ju olla mingi muu sarnane ka ega ma ei tea).
Istusin järve ääres trepil ja sõin oma hommikust einet. Ja siis muidugi see igavene Jaapani draama - kas mul veab ja kuskil läheduses on prügikasti? (Vedas, oli) (tavaliselt ei vea nii hästi. Igal umbes teisel tänavanurgal on joogiautomaadid, nende juures on tihti plastiku ja purgi prügikastid, aga lihtsalt prügi jaoks on haruharva midagi.. Vist, sest jaapanlaste jaoks on nats tabu tänaval süüa.. Aga kes teab)
Ja siis hakkasin ümber järve tatsama, sest ma tahtsin Musicbox forestisse minna ja kaart nagu näitas, et täpselt vastas peaks olema.. 
 
Siinoohal peaks mainima, et Fuji olukord hommikul oli olematu. Udu oli piisavalt tihe, et lähemal asuvate, palju palju madalamate mäekeste tippusidki polnud näha... Muidugi lootsin, et läheb soojemaks ja päike tuleb välja ja udu haiub veits. (Ei vedanud see kord. Hea, et ma rongiaknast ikka pildi sain..)

Igatahes, jõudsin vastas kaldale ja uurisin, et kuidas ma üles mäenõlvale saan, et sinna musicbox asja minna.. Ja jõudsin järeldusele, et kaarti ma ikka lugeda ei oska ja et see metsake on veel 50minuti kaugusel ümber järve.. Nojah, nii palju aega mul polnud. Kahjuks. Ületasin järve üle suure maantee silla (teisel pool silda ja järve , st seal kuhu ma kõndida ei jõudnud, oli palju ilusam. Tüüpiline) (see teine järve pool tundus pakju vähem turistiline, mis tähendas, et pildil polnud tuhandeid järve äärseid hotelle..)

Jõudsin tagasi hostelisse kella 9 ajal, uurisin kähku bussi ja rongi plaane ja tõttasin minema..
Bussid oli hommikul juba täis.. (Ma endiselt ei mõista), niiet taaskord rongisõit. Seekord sõitsin uhkema rongiga Kawaguchikost minema. Ja see oli niii tore rong - see oli spets mõeldud Fuji vaatlemiseks, niiet tehtid peatusi ja tädi seletas, mis kuskil on ja et nüüd vaadake paremale seal on jõgi ja kui ei oleks udu, siis te näeksite Fujit siit jm. Lisaks nägi rong megavahva ka välja, aga ma unustasin rongipildid tõmmata tahvlisse..

Igatahes. Tagasi Shinjukus ja siis seiklus, et leida, kus see koht on, kus kohver luku taga on.. Ja siis järgmise rongi peale. Järgmine sihtkoht Hakone-Yumoto. 
Sinna jõudes hakkas päris kahju, et ma Kawaguchiko kasuks otsustasin, sest Hakone tundus palju palju põnevam ja ilusam (võinoh, ilmselt oleks pidanud mõlemas tükkmaad kauem aega veetma). Hakone on ka palju suurem, niiet tänaseks oli kavas vaid Väikese Printsi muuseum. Sinna sõitsin loksuvas bussis mööda mägiteid. Vinge!
Mu kaameraku aga hakkas vingerpussi mängima ja läks järsku kolmelt pulgalt ühele, niiet iga klõps oli potentsiaalne viimane. 

Igatahes. väikese Printsi muuseum oli ilmselt kõige vigem muuseum, kus ma kunagi käinud olen! Tähendab... Kahju oli, et enamus kirjeldused olid vaid jaapani keeles, inglise keeles oli vaid lühikesed kokku võtted.. Aga see oli niii geniaalne! Õu oli kõik Prantsusmaa - Exupery kodukant ja nii.. Ja muuseum ise (kus polnud lubatud pilti teha, sorry) oli Exupery elulugu ja vihjed, et mille põhjal mingid elemendid Väikeses Printsis on.. Ja sa jalutasid läbi selle laburündi, mis oli kõik ehitatud temaatiliselt, et ta lapsepõlve tuba ja siis pariisi tänavad 20ndel ja siis postilennuki sisu ja siis new york 30ndatel jne jne.. Imeilus ja tore!

Ja siis tagasi loksuvas bussis. Veider bussi süsteem. Sa maksad kui bussist väljud (et vastavalt mis vahemaa sa sõitsid).. Ilmselt et ära hoida, et inimesed ütlevad, et sõidan kolm peatust ja tegelikult sõidavad liini lõppu?

Igatahes. Kaamera aku ütles üles kui ma muuseumist välja astusin.. Vähemalt pidas nii kaua vastu.
Järgmine rongisõit (6 rongi ühes päevas - jeekim) oli shinkansen! Jehuuu! Maksin hästi mitu raha ja ronisin platvormile. Üks kimas mööda.. Ma ei jõudnud telefoni avadagi, et pilti teha kui see oli juba läinud.
Igatahes. Sõitsin Nagayosse ja siis istusin ümber järgmisele shinkansenile Kytosse. 
Uskumatud asjad ikka küll.. Veidi ebamugav on see sõit, kõrvad on pidevalt lukus ja pea hakkab ringi käima, aga eks see kiirematel hetkedel 300 km/tunnis on seda väärt ehk ma jõudsin Kyotosse 3,5 tunniga ( nii umbes 600km, ja ümber istumine)

Ja Kyotosse jõudes olin ma nii surmväsinud, et otsisin ruttu oma hosteli üles - kapsulid! Täiega sürr ja utoopiline ja nagu mingine sci-fi film.

--

Morning started extremely early, specially considering it's me, but I thought that would be the only way to actually see anything at Kawaguchiko and get to The other side of the Mountain at a sensible time and whatnot. So I left my hostel at 6am. 

Kawaguchiko is such a culture shock after Tokyo. It seems like this dead end kind of town where people come and then stay because it's 'sort of convenient'. I mean it's relatively touristy with being literally next to Mt Fuji, and 5 huge lakes don't hurt the tourism either.

Anyways, I grabbed a breakfast (oh no, it's becoming an habit?!) from a petrol station and headed towards the lake.
I saw a few people on my way, and people greeted me (is this a thing morning people do?!) but when I got to the lake it was silent and empty except some monks (probably) doing early morning tai-chi (or other martial arty-yoga-thingymebob). So I had my breakfast on some steps, hoping that I'd be lucky and there's actually a bin somewhere around (there's the thing - every second street corner has a drinks vending machine, and there are often can and plastic recycling bins next to them, but normal rubbish bins are extremely hard to find.. Possibly because it is slightly frowned upon in Japan to eat on the street/while walking?). Anyways. There was a bin. Yay!

I started walking to the otherside on the lake because I sort of wanted to bead into the Music Box Forest and it seemed that it was just across, and up somewhere..

Oh, yes. Fuji. Dreams lf getting magical early morning photos of Mt Fuji from across the lake were shattered. There was so much fog! You couldn't even see the shape of it, but I still hoped that it'd get warmer and sunnier and the fog would lift a bit (it didn't). Glad I snapped the photo yesterday from the train window.
Anyways. Got to the otherside from where I was before and realised I can't read maps.. And that it was at least another 50 minutes to the music box forest that was even further up the lake..well. I didn't have  that time. So I crossed the lake on an highway bridge in the middle. (It was much nicer on the other side, where i didn't have time to go....) and headed back to hostel to check out and head back to Shinjuku.

The buses were already sold out (what? Where were all these people? What size are those buses? What?). So I had to take the train back. And it was lovely. i upgraded to a  fancier train (it was only ¥200 more.. That's like £3) and it was like a special tourist, sightseeing train for viewing mt fuji. So they made stops and the lady on the train pointed out waterfalls and things on the side of the tracks and points where you could 'usually' spot Mt Fuji and such. And the train itself was a funky design as well.. With seats in the round and side ways and every seat with a different pattern (I was silly and didn't import any of the train photos though).
Anyways. 

A shirt adventure back in Shinjuku trying to find where the lockers were in the huge station. And then onto the next train tooo Hakone-Yumoto. (And weird train food. Who would've thought that sweet potato mochi is that yummy?)
Anyways. Once in Hakone, I felt a bit dissappointed that I didn't stay overnight there. It looked really lovely and beautiful! It is also much bigger than Kawaguchiko. And well in reality one should spend much longer in both towns probably...Anyways, the only thing in my Hakone itinerary was the Little Prince Museum. Had to take a bus to the top of a very windy hill, and it was amazing.just green all around, and then waterfalls and straight drops down, and it was all very picturesque!

And The Little Prince Museum is probably the nicest museum I've ever been to. Outside gardens are inspired by the French homes of Exupery ( they've actually built the streets). And the inside museum is the story of his life and drew parallels where things in his life have inspired things in The Little Prince. But it's all like a labyrinth  that you walk through and the scenography of it all is amazing. Like the walls have pretend torn off posters from paris in the 20s, and then you walm through an airmail plane and then you see Exupery's office in New York in the 30s, and then there's desert and starcloth and stuff. It was beautiful and really well designed! ( sadly photography wasn't allowed inside) It was a shame though that it was all in Japanese - there was only a rather brief description in English..

Anyways, just as I got out from the museum, my camera battery died.. (It was playing up.. A bit worrying really)
And the bus journey back to Hakone station. And then another train journey (6 alltogether today!). This time the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto! Paid lots of monies, was a bit confused which one I actually needed to take (and for once there was no station staff around?!) but managed to find the right platform. Just before my train arrived, another one hurrled past at mega speed. I didn't even have time to take out my phone and it was gone.
So I took a shinkansen to Nagoya and then to Kyoto. Crazy things. A bit uncomfortable.. My ears kept poping and I felt a bit queesy but I guess travelling up to 300km/h is no joke ( that's about 220m/h apparently...) So I was in Kyoto in about 3,5h (that's about 600km, and I didn't take the fastest shinkansen...)

And by the time I got to Kyoto I was soooo tired, so I hurried to my hostel.. No - CAPSULE! And it is surreal. Like, literally something out of a sci-fi.





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